Out of the fitting room The book you are holding is a special issue of Modes Pratiques. Two or three times a year since 2015, the “staff” of Modes Pratiques has met at the Duperré School of Art and Design in Paris to talk. We talk about clothes and fashion, fashion people, fashion scholars, fashion gossip and the like... From the indispensable chaos of our conversations stories emerge, as do thoughts and proposals – some whimsical, others fanciful. Many of our ideas remain unfulfilled, abandoned in the fitting room of our ambitions. From this nebulous body of intuitions then emerges what will become the focus of the annual issue of Modes Pratiques: its core theme. “Norms and Transgressions” was the theme of the first issue. “Without Fashion” was the second one. This special issue, translated in English, presents a selection of papers published in these two French editions. Norms, formulated or not, are one of the threads of the way clothes are made, worn, and perceived. Transgressions illuminate their borders. In Modes Pratiques n°1, we followed several tracks, among them: bathing etiquette in California in the early twentieth century, crew uniforms, blue-collared clothes in nineteenth-century Paris, drag-queen balls in Paris, dance halls during the 1920’s and 1930’s, and “Voguing” ceremonies in today’s suburbs... “Can we live without fashion?” asks Modes Pratiques Issue n°2. This issue explored frontiers where fashion is ignored, banned, rejected or demonized: times of scarcity during World War I, nudist utopias in Germany at the turn of the twentieth century, French feminist wardrobes, Wild Boys escaped from the novel of William S. Burroughs, the Summer of Love in 1967, the clothing regime of Sioux reservations, veil addicts during the French Revolution, and the story of Tarno, a young funk music lover from Nigeria who became an Islamic preacher...
Manuel Charpy (CNRS - IRHiS) directed this issue. Patrice Verdière created and realized the layout. Printed in Normandy by Imprimerie Corlet, in January 2018. 448 pages ISBN: 979-10-95518-11-2 ISSN: 2491-1453 price : 30 euros
— Scanning Fashion. Interview and portfolio of Katerina Jebb, Romy Texier
Norms and transgressions (N°1) — Delphine Baron, “The queen of fancy dress” on trial. Costume Balls and Social Norms During the Second Empire, Corinne Legoy — Rags and ads, Advertisements and Advices Selected, Patrice Verdière — Controversy in Los Angeles. Bathing Etiquette in California During the Early 20th Century. Elsa Devienne — French Theory,Clémentine Mélois — Cabin Crew Uniforms. The Uniforms of the Flying Crew at Air France, Between Rules and Reality, as Told by Those Who Wear Them, Loïc Perramond — The Working Man’s Blouse in 19th Century Paris. The Norms of Dignity, Alain Faure — Their ball. Notes on the Photos of Magic-City, Drag Ball of the Inter-War Period, Farid Chenoune — Voguing... or the Height of Exaggeration (Paris). “Ball is a place to express the suffering you feel and be able to invent your life”, Manuel Charpy — Decree of King Henry II Regarding Reformation of the Superfluity of Silk Clothing (1549),Marjorie Meiss-Even — Adjustments. Bodies and Clothing in Standard Industrial Sizes During the 19th Century,Manuel Charpy
Without fashion (N°2) — The “Blank” Degree of Style. What Happened to the “Normcore” Trend, Benjamin Simmenauer — Fashion in Moderation. The Ligue Sociale d’Acheteurs and the Appeal to Female Consumers at the Turn of the 20th Century, Marie-EmmanuelleChessel — Lancaster Amish Country. A Photographic Inquiry. Juliette Angotti — Veils of the Revolution. Proletarians, Slaves, Outcasts and Fashionistas, Nicole Pellegrin — Tarno, from Funk to Prophet. Ampleness, Bell-Bottoms, “Realities” of Fashion and Re-Islamisation, Souley Hassan — Fashion beyond Cloth. Photographic Portraits of Mannequins by Nicolas Descottes, Céline Malet — Fashion in Times of Scarcity (1944-1951). The Diaries of a Teenager, Jane Aubaile, Maude Bass-Krueger et Sophie Kurkdjian — On Immodesty and Modesty. Clothing Issues and Struggles in New Caledonia, 19th-20th Century, Isabelle Merle — There’s No Such Thing as the Indian Dress. The Clothing Regime of a Sioux Reservation (1868-1968), Thomas Grillot — “Clothing Is a Crime”. Naked in All Places and Circumstances. The German Prophets of Permanent Nudity at the Turn of the 20th Century. Marc Cluet — Summer of Love, 1967, photo reportage. Dennis L. Mannes — From Refusal of Fashion to the Creation of an ’Anti-Fashion’. Neo-Rural Communities in France, from the Late 1960s to the Mid 1970s, Catherine Rouvière — The Wild Boys. from the novel of William S. Burroughs,Bérenger Pelc — Fashion, Clothes, and Feminism. Interviews With Feminist Activists: Yvette Roudy, Michelle Perrot and Georgette Sand, Corinne Legoy and Marjorie Meiss-Even — Fashion in Ashes, New Collections for the Hereafter, Jing Wang
— Alphabet Book of French Fashion. From One Court to Another, the Proprieties of a Passing Beauty, Céline Mallet and Mathieu Buard