Out of the fitting room Since 2015, we have met in Paris to talk about clothes and fashion. From the indispensable chaos of our conversations emerge stories, ideas, propositions, and dreams—many of which will stay unrealized, abandoned in the fitting room of our projects. From this unstable body of intuitions, desires, and opportunities, also emerges the focus of the annual issue of Modes Pratiques: its theme. “Norms and Transgressions” was the theme of the first issue (out of print and soon in digital version). “Without Fashion,” the theme of the second one. This special issue features a selection of papers from the first two issues-- now translated into English--as well as several new papers, interviews, and portfolios. Who will you meet in this special issue? An artist who scans clothes; gentlewomen and gentlemen who are forbidden from displaying their own superfluity; ballroom queens; perfect men and average men; workers in overalls; a magician of fancy dress; French suburban Voguers voguing; air hostesses and stewards and their uniforms; elegant men without style; women who fought fashion’s excesses; timeless Amish; veiled women of the French Revolution; Chinese men and women who burn the clothes for their ancestors; a funk adept from Niger turned Islamic prophet; window mannequins; Kanaks in manous; Sioux on a reservation; nudists in Bavaria; a hippy librarian in San Francisco; multi-generational feminists; hipster farmers in the south of France; wild boys in Morocco; Parisian girls under the Occupation; lexicographers…
450 pages, 450 illustrations, 30 € You can order the Special issue in English below ("Acheter" powered by Paypal) Review + postage for all international shipping: 35 € Your issue will arrive by train or by boat (that is how we get the price to stay low). Travel could take up to 20 days. If you have any questions, you can email us at: [email protected]
Manuel Charpy (CNRS - IRHiS) directed this issue. Patrice Verdière created and realized the layout. Printed in Normandy by Imprimerie Corlet, in January 2018. 448 pages ISBN: 979-10-95518-11-2 ISSN: 2491-1453 price : 30 euros
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summary
— Scanning Fashion. Interview and portfolio of Katerina Jebb, Romy Texier
Norms and transgressions (N°1) — Delphine Baron, “The queen of fancy dress” on trial. Costume Balls and Social Norms During the Second Empire, Corinne Legoy — Rags and ads, Advertisements and Advices Selected, Patrice Verdière — Controversy in Los Angeles. Bathing Etiquette in California During the Early 20th Century. Elsa Devienne — French Theory,Clémentine Mélois — Cabin Crew Uniforms. The Uniforms of the Flying Crew at Air France, Between Rules and Reality, as Told by Those Who Wear Them, Loïc Perramond — The Working Man’s Blouse in 19th Century Paris. The Norms of Dignity, Alain Faure — Their ball. Notes on the Photos of Magic-City, Drag Ball of the Inter-War Period, Farid Chenoune — Voguing... or the Height of Exaggeration (Paris). “Ball is a place to express the suffering you feel and be able to invent your life”, Manuel Charpy — Decree of King Henry II Regarding Reformation of the Superfluity of Silk Clothing (1549),Marjorie Meiss-Even — Adjustments. Bodies and Clothing in Standard Industrial Sizes During the 19th Century,Manuel Charpy
Without fashion (N°2) — The “Blank” Degree of Style. What Happened to the “Normcore” Trend, Benjamin Simmenauer — Fashion in Moderation. The Ligue Sociale d’Acheteurs and the Appeal to Female Consumers at the Turn of the 20th Century, Marie-EmmanuelleChessel — Lancaster Amish Country. A Photographic Inquiry. Juliette Angotti — Veils of the Revolution. Proletarians, Slaves, Outcasts and Fashionistas, Nicole Pellegrin — Tarno, from Funk to Prophet. Ampleness, Bell-Bottoms, “Realities” of Fashion and Re-Islamisation, Souley Hassan — Fashion beyond Cloth. Photographic Portraits of Mannequins by Nicolas Descottes, Céline Malet — Fashion in Times of Scarcity (1944-1951). The Diaries of a Teenager, Jane Aubaile, Maude Bass-Krueger et Sophie Kurkdjian — On Immodesty and Modesty. Clothing Issues and Struggles in New Caledonia, 19th-20th Century, Isabelle Merle — There’s No Such Thing as the Indian Dress. The Clothing Regime of a Sioux Reservation (1868-1968), Thomas Grillot — “Clothing Is a Crime”. Naked in All Places and Circumstances. The German Prophets of Permanent Nudity at the Turn of the 20th Century. Marc Cluet — Summer of Love, 1967, photo reportage. Dennis L. Mannes — From Refusal of Fashion to the Creation of an ’Anti-Fashion’. Neo-Rural Communities in France, from the Late 1960s to the Mid 1970s, Catherine Rouvière — The Wild Boys. from the novel of William S. Burroughs,Bérenger Pelc — Fashion, Clothes, and Feminism. Interviews With Feminist Activists: Yvette Roudy, Michelle Perrot and Georgette Sand, Corinne Legoy and Marjorie Meiss-Even — Fashion in Ashes, New Collections for the Hereafter, Jing Wang
— Alphabet Book of French Fashion. From One Court to Another, the Proprieties of a Passing Beauty, Céline Mallet and Mathieu Buard. Photographs by Marianne Maric